This article was written by The Zillennial Zine’s fall editorial intern Alayna Thomas. Find her on Instagram at @ratatoolie. If you would like to share an article with The Zillennial, send us an email at thezillennialzine@gmail.com.

Dermal fillers have become super popular in recent years. In fact, almost 5 million procedures took place in 2022, up 70 percent from 2019. Although they have been around for over a century, there are constantly new advances in fillers, and we aren’t too knowledgeable about the long term effects of them. However, there is one long term effect that has been gaining quite some attention on social media: pillow face.

What is Pillow Face?

Pillow face is the unofficial term for people who have dermal fillers that leave them looking puffy and swollen. There’s even an aptly named filter for it on Instagram. 

In order to learn more about pillow face, we need to know a bit about dermal fillers themselves.

In 1981, the FDA approved the first filler based on bovine collagen. Collagen is a protein our skin naturally produces, and this filler promoted the production of it. This was very popular, as it was inexpensive. Unfortunately, it caused many allergic reactions. Also, it was not useful on certain portions of the face, such as lips.

In the 1990’s, hyaluronic acid dermal fillers hit the market. Hyaluronic acid is also a naturally occuring acid in our skin that helps hydrate it and keep it plump. These dermal fillers are a modified version of hyaluronic acid so that your lymphatic system doesn’t drain it out. Most dermal fillers given today are made of hyaluronic acid.

What Causes It?

Pillow face is caused by people using too much filler, which can be due to a multitude of reasons.

The main reason is that hyaluronic acid fillers do not dissolve as quickly as doctors previously thought. They at first thought that the fillers dissolved after 6- 12 months, with the longest being two years. However, they now realize that these fillers can last way longer. Like, 20 years longer. People are going back to their injectors year after year, with filler building up.

Additionally, these fillers have the potential to migrate if not injected properly, which can contribute to the ‘swollen’ look. Hyaluronic acid fillers also have the ability to expand tissue while in your face because it’s a compound that really likes to absorb water.

Another factor that can occur with the previous ones is a phenomenon that’s called ‘filler fatigue’. This is when someone has become accustomed to their face on fillers and keeps on injecting, distorting facial features. This can lead to someone having a pillow face.

Lastly, there is more research being done on the effects of fillers on the body’s lymphatic system. Scientists believe that dermal fillers block lymph nodes and can potentially damage them. This can cause swelling and lumps. 

Can I Reverse Pillow Face?

Theoretically, yes. Many people are getting their fillers dissolved because they are realizing that they may have gone too far. Even some celebrities with pillow face have started to reverse it, such as influencer Blac Chyna. She has even documented this journey.

 Even though you can get your fillers dissolved, that doesn’t always mean that the swollen look will completely go away. When fillers are dissolved, many who administer them only inject locally. Meaning, if you over injected your lips, your injector may only dissolve the filler in your lips. We know that filler has the potential to migrate and expand, so there may still be left over filler in your face. Likewise, some of the lymph nodes in that area may be damaged, which can contribute to swelling.

Why Do So Many People Have It?

Many societies around the world value youthfulness and looking young. Speaking from a Western perspective, women are held to especially high standards. 

A recent trend on social media were people who were older Millennials and Gen X claiming that they looked younger and better than Gen Z’ers. This was particularly popular with women. The fact that these slightly older women felt the need to compete with younger women is troubling.

Likewise, it’s disheartening to see that women who aren’t even old freaking out about wrinkles and smile lines. You’re only 27! Put on some sunscreen and take a deep breath. 

I also find it crazy when I see girls as young as 12 or 13 talking about using anti-aging serums as part of their skincare routine on TikTok. To me, that is entirely way too young to worry about aging. It’s almost like a trickle down effect; these young girls see themselves as aging because they see that when a woman hits her mid-20’s, she’s basically ancient. Leonardo DiCaprio won’t even date anyone over 26. What message does that send? 

Overall, our society needs to embrace aging. I think that it’s okay to have smile lines, crow’s feet, and wrinkles! It adds character. It shows that you’ve lived a life. 

How Can I Avoid Pillow Face?

The only true way to avoid pillow face is to not have any dermal fillers injected at all. However, I cannot force you to not get fillers. 

If you do get fillers, go to a reputable injector. States such as Florida have lax regulations on who can administer injectables, so do your research. Injectors who do not have certifications might be using other materials, such as gasoline, to inject your face. They may also have a shotty technique, which can lead to migration, leakage, lumps, and other issues.

Before you decide to get dermal fillers, do a mental health check in. A while ago I had a breast reduction done. Although I did it for health reasons (my back was killing me), it is considered cosmetic surgery. I had to have a mental health screening before the surgery to make sure I did not have body dysmorphia. I liked that they did that screening because it is true, cosmetic surgery will not fix all of your insecurities. You have to do the mental work as well. As far as I know, there is no screening like this for those who choose to get dermal filler. Ask yourself: “What is pillow face? What are the risks that can come with these injections?”

But, there are ‘natural’ ways to combat aging. The most important thing is sunscreen. Protecting your face from UV ways is the most surefire way to prevent wrinkles and damage. I also use retinol, it’s great at smoothing your skin. Hyaluronic acid serum is great (you don’t just have to inject it!), as well as vitamin c serum.

Do you know what pillow face is? Do you know any celebrities with pillow face? Is it a problem? Let us know in the comments below!

More Beauty Articles

Relationship Articles

Lifestyle Articles