This article was written by The Zillennial Zine’s summer editorial intern Dylan Fraize. Find him on Instagram at @fraize.jpg. If you would like to share an article with The Zillennial, send us an email at thezillennialzine@gmail.com.
Fashion is everywhere you look. Everyone partakes in fashion whether they’d like to or not. It’s one of the largest industries in the world. It’s a form of art that can define an era. Its roots are historical symbols of wealth and opulence. In 2024, fashion is whatever you want it to be. Despite the inconstant meaning of fashion one thing has remained true. The prevalence of French fashion and the designers representing their country abroad.
The French have proliferated fashion like no other culture. The very vocabulary used to describe certain techniques or styles is French. No surprise that French history is so deeply intertwined with the world view of fashion and culture.
The French King Louis XIV was at the start of what is today’s fashion lifecycle. The fashions of the 17th century were under royal control making the king the tastemaker for the country. He was as flashy and excessive as you could imagine royalty to be. During this time the fashion press started to create prints. The print would showcase people in the latest fashion and is seen as the start of trend cycles and catalogs.
Among the French royalty with ties to fashion, Marie Antoinette may be the most significant. She was a prolific dresser in the 1700s. She embodied all things elite and exclusive despite her people starving. Although her life was short, she has survived as a pop culture symbol of celebrity and style—such a colored history yet still remembered for how she dressed.
In 1868, the French coined the term haute couture which meant fashion of high standards. During this time, haute couture was exclusively dresses made for women. Haute couture changed the silhouettes and altered what was seen as fashionable during the time.
Towards the end of the 19th century, courtiers began to attract global attention. This attention created a demand for fashion showcases. The most prevalent location of these shows was of course Paris.
The 20th century ushered in a world of prominent French designers. Names like Christian Dior, Hubert De Givenchy, Coco Chanel, Yves Saint Laurent, and Pierre Balmain. WWII halted the works of many of these designers. After the German occupation, there were rations on the French peoples’ fashion and textile use. Above all else France was a country that was healing. From this period creatives like Dior and Givenchy wanted to get back to the theatrics and art of fashion. They used their works to create a new image of France and revolutionized the fashion landscape.
In the 1980s Paris was once again at the epicenter of fashion. Designers traveled from around the world to prove themselves on an international stage. Most notably historic designers like Rei Kawakubo and Yohji Yamamoto. The influx of new designers showing and opening houses in Paris meant a new style was on the horizon.
This rundown of French fashion would be amiss if it didn’t mention one of Paris’ most theatrical designers: Jean Paul Gaultier. He interned under Pierre Cardin at only 18 based on the skill of his sketches. Later on, building up his brand starting in 1976. While heading his eponymous label, he’s been a stepping stone for many French designers learning under him. He created looks that felt almost costume-like. You could spot a Gaultier piece a mile away. After almost 5 decades he still has a hand in creation.
Today’s France
Fashion in 2024 is no different, brands have come and gone, designers tried and left, hardships changed the industry, and regulations altered the means of production. In the fast-paced world of fashion, it’s hard to tell who’ll be next, but it’s safe to say they’ll probably be French.
Marine Serre, is a designer at the highest level. She’s gone from intern under the likes of Mathieu Blazy and Sarah Burton. In 2017, her graduate collection was that of fan favorite even being awarded the LVMH prize being the youngest to ever win. Her looks are contemporary, blending the world’s growing affinity for athleisure with the pragmatic approach of high fashion. She creates a refreshing style that’s extremely wearable and dynamic. Unlike most luxury designers she designs with sustainability in mind using recycled bed sheets, denim, and other fabrics.
Simon Porte Jacquemus, started the eponymous label in 2009 while working a retail job to finance the business. While the brand was nowhere near its success today in 2014 Jacquemus lifted off. Even winning an LVMH prize and gaining the notoriety to let the founder solely focus on the brand. Simon’s aesthetic is freedom, through flowy clothes and bright pastels he brings out a youthful side of fashion. His work is fragile like a museum piece you can’t help but admire.
Burc Akyol, is a French couturier of Turkish descent. He was introduced to the fashion industry by his father who was a tailor. Burc’s traditional training is evident in his work today. Fashion in 2024 lacks the same structure and craftsmanship of the past that Burc delivers. He believes in creating an elegant look made out of sustainable fabrics of the highest quality. Each piece is handmade in their Paris design house with the utmost attention to detail.
Pauline Dujancourt, is another French designer altering the perception of the body. Through her reimagined knitwear techniques she creates what she calls “dysfunctional beauty”. Her work is a blend of knits and woven strips that give each hybrid piece has a distinct drape. Her work cherishes the art of knitting, and the sentiment behind the time and effort that goes into each piece. She aims to empower women of the past and present who undertake the knitting duty.
French fashion in 2024 is continuing to redefine itself. Finding inspiration in the traditions that make them French, and the current events changing the meaning of what it means to be French. Thanks to technology independent designers from all over the world are much easier to discover. Social media and other fashion-focused platforms are giving these smaller designers a spotlight. Take the time out of your day to find someone new, you could just stumble upon the next legend.
How do you think French fashion 2024 has evolved? Do you think Paris is rightfully hailed as the fashion capital of the world? Who are your favorite French designers? Do you recognize any names of up-and-comers? Let us know in the comments below!
Leave a Reply