This article was written by The Zillennial Zine’s spring editorial intern Erika Gay. Find her on Instagram at @erikag0503. If you would like to share an article with The Zillennial, send us an email at thezillennialzine@gmail.com.
With Black History Month nearing its end, there are so many influential people to recognize and remember that had a major impact on culture, fashion, and style around the world. Not only fashion designers but style icons who shaped fashion and cultivated trends that are still alive and well today. When we think of black fashion icons in the industry today we recognize Pharell Williams- creative director of Louis Vuitton, Virgil Abloh- the late designer who reimagined luxury streetwear with the brand Off-White, and more! Sometimes we only think about the fashion and items instead of the creatives behind them. Although we should always recognize these people, this month is a great time to dive into history and learn about the people who left behind fashion legacies. Keep reading to learn more and maybe even see your favorite designer!
Behind The Scenes
Unfortunately, not all of these Black designers and creatives received the credit and praise for their creations at the time due to racism and systematic oppression. Many of these talented people had their designs overlooked, no matter how well done, just because of their skin color. One example of this is the late designer Ann Lowe. Lowe was born in 1898 in Alabama and was the first Black designer to rise to fame by dressing debutantes and high society women from the 1920s to 1960s. She is best known for designing Jacqueline Kennedy’s wedding dress in 1953. This was her most recognized accomplishment but the road to get there was not easy at all. She went to the S.T. Taylor School of Design, but she was shunned by the school’s director because of her race. He allowed her to attend the school but segregated her in another classroom because her classmates refused to be in the same space as an African American. She later moved to Tampa and worked as a finisher in a Manhattan dress shop for several months. It was hard for her to find work due to her race although she was extremely accomplished. Later on, she designed dresses for Gasparilla Celebrations which were ball gown events. Then in the 1940s she permanently moved to New York and The Madison Avenue locations solidified Lowe as the first African American to have a shop on the famed fashion retail strip. She was such an accomplished designer and the blueprint for black fashion designers to come later her creations were beautiful and the techniques and fabrics she used were the face of elegance we still see today in haute couture.
Hip-Hop & Fashion Combined
We know that black artists in the music, sports, and fashion industry have great styles. Whether it is a red carpet event or walking down the tunnel for an NBA game you are highly likely to see a stylish outfit. This is because of the major influence fashion icons like Dapper Dap had on the industry in streetwear and high fashion combined. He reimagined a chill hip-hop New York vibe to high-end tailored finishes like Gucci. Daniel Day, known as Dapper Dan, is a Harlem couturier known as the “king of knock-offs.” He made his name in the late ’80s and ’90s as the tailor who provided rap culture with its signature gangster-inspired style, reworking traditional luxury-house products to outfit a slew of emerging hip-hop stars, athletes and gamblers including the likes of LL Cool J, James Jackson, and Floyd Mayweather. Operating out of his Harlem boutique, he reworked designer fabrics into custom outfits for hip-hop artists and athletes. He faced lawsuits that claimed he had violated brands’ copyrights, and by 1992, after a raid on his boutique led by Fendi, he shut down the store. I think this was just luxury brands trying to not have a black man from Harlem and his pieces get more attention than their highly expensive ones. Later on, he collaborated with Gucci because they saw his talent and wanted to combine haute couture with his streetwear vibe. He is now eighty years old, yet still one of the best dressed at all of the events he attends. His Instagram keeps up with all the latest and is worth checking out.
White House Worthy
Many of the black designers in history have their work in museums, history books, and online libraries. Having a design in the White House is even bigger! Tracy Reese is a contemporary designer known for her feminine, colorful, and bold patterns. Her designs have been worn by First Lady Michelle Obama, proving that her elegant yet accessible style resonates on a global scale for all women. She is an icon in fashion and the black community and has been a great role model for black designers, especially women who want to get into the industry like me! Tracy Reese launched her fashion brand in 1998 in New York City and over the past twenty-plus years, expanded to include sub-brands Plenty, and Frock. She has had strong partnerships with Barney’s, Bergdorf Goodman, Neiman Marcus, Nordstrom, and Anthropologie. In 2012, First Lady Michelle Obama wore a custom Tracy Reese dress to address the DNC. Other important collaborations of the brand include Sarah Jessica Parker, Tracee Ellis Ross, and Oprah Winfrey, very influential women in fashion! In 2019, Tracy launched Hope for Flowers by Tracy Reese, a responsibly designed and produced collection. Part of HFF’s mission is to create a positive social impact by empowering women and young people through arts programming in public schools and collaboration with local artisans in Detroit. Not only is she a talented designer but she cares about her community and dedicates her time and efforts for those less fortunate which I love!
I could go on for pages talking about many more influential people but these are just some of my favorites that I feel need to be talked about. These Black fashion designers have left an indelible mark on the industry through their artistry and paved the way for so many creatives to utilize their skill and culture to bring amazing pieces to the world. Their work influences the way we see fashion, representation, and empowerment and as a black woman in fashion, this is very important to me. So as we celebrate Black History Month, we honor their contributions and the doors they’ve opened for future generations.
Who are your favorite Black fashion designers? Share your thoughts in the comments!
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